If it don't have wheel's, it ain't a sport.
-Episode #7
by Phil Veldheer

First, if I forgot to mention it earlier, we've run a best of 11.68 in the yellow car, It has been quite an experience racing three race cars every week. It was easy racing one in Super/Pro so I went for two in Super/Pro four years ago. But three has taken a toll. Plus it hasn't rained this season. Its nice to have a week off once and a while. Back to the buildup.
Photo 7A shows my Lokar Inc.Turbo 350-turbo 400 trans dipstick. Ihave to admit that I bought a $18.00 chrome dipstick first. I tried to bend it to fit my custom installation of my 455 Olds engine and turbo 400 in a 1987 Cutlass. BUT IT WAS IMPOSSIBLE> So I bit the bullet and did what I should have in the first place. I called LOKAR at 423-966-2269. I bought the firewall mount for 56.95 plus shipping. I had it in two days and I was thrilled with the ease of installation, plus the high quality craftsmanship in the product. They make trans dipsticks for just about every application, plus engine oil dipsticks also. You can also shorten the items if they are to long.

Next item you'll need is a custom drive shaft. Photo 7B shows Jack Rinks from D & R Driveline welding together a new high performance drive shaft for the yellow car. I meet JAck and his partner, Dennis De Young a few years ago when the drive shaft in the red Super/Pro car broke. I was using 3" driveshafts in both Super/Pro cars when on its 650th run it decided the driveshaft didn't want to drive any more. It took out the rear end, fuel line and a large portion of the aluminum interior. And it was contained by the drive shaft loop. The driveshaft had real sharp edges and it hooked everything and just tore the car apart. It also broke the tailshaft of the turbo 400. All at about 5 mph. Moving on, we now have 3 1/2" driveshafts in the transbrake cars. The red car has a 9" Ford and the black car has a 12 bolt. The new yellow car has a 10 bolt so the largest driveshaft that would match up to the yokes available was a 3". No problem as we only foot brake this car anyway. I now plan on replacing my driveshafts every 2 or 3 years now. THEY CAN WEAR OUT! Plus it is very expensive to rebuild everything when the driveshaft pooped out on old red. D & R Driveline is located in Jenison MI and you can reach them at 616-667-1308. A custom high performance driveshaft built for you and high speed balanced is around $125.00, if you bring in the slip yoke. If you want a simple driveshaft balance job on a good driveshaft, they'll do that for a mere $30.00. They build three different thickness driveshafts in the 3" size, .063 for a regular car, .083 for a race car and .095 for a heavy duty application. Fell free to call these guys with your questions. They have been doing this forever. When they build a drive shaft, three things must be considered, Horsepower, RPM and operating angle. Each of these will determine joint size, tubing diameter and wall thickness. Once these have been determined, the shaft is assembled to meet or exceed factory spec runout. Then the shaft is welded and checked again. Finall the complete driveshaft with yokes or flanges is dynamically balanced. Special high performance universal joints are available. They have solid forged bodies with no holes drilled in the cross to weaken the joints. They also have longer needle bearings and are packed with sythetic lithium grease that will last the life of the joint. They boys have over 50 years experience in driveline equipment and they do work for oval track, drag racing, tractor pulling, mud racers, drag boats and street rods. Plus the average car, truck or semi. Fibnally when you measure a driveshaft, no matter where you buy it, you can measure it two ways. One is to measure from the center of one u-joint to the center of the other u-joint. The other way is to measure from the face of one flange to the face of the other flange. Photo 7C shows two of my new 3 1/2" driveshafts next to a stock 3"

Photo 7 D shows friend, Paul Plaggemars of Glass Enterprise-Auto Division-Holland MI. He is installing my new HARWOOD Lexan windshield. We tow all three vehicles on matching open trailers, and the first week out, where we got to the track, I noticed the windshield was cracked and you could see where the stone hit it. Well this was a golden opportunity for some weight saving's. Plus with the Mar-Guard Harwood lexan windshield I won't have to worry about a broken windshield again (it was hit again on the way to the track two weeks ago) I have a Harwood in my red car also. Harwood had it to me in about two days and it fit perfectly.

HARWOOD can be reached at 1-800-822-3392. Before we installed it Paul painted the outer edge of the windshield to match the stock look. He used Sika Producst black primer #206J. He says this is the only thing that will stick to lexan. Also when he installed it he used Sika Products #255 fast cure glue. It has a 15 minute working time and it cures in 20 hours. It is held in place with 4 pop rivets. One in each corner. It didn't take to long and he only charged me 40 bucks. Plus he took the cracked windshield out. Thats all for now.

For technical specs on Phil's cars, check out his page in the 442.com Virtual Car Show.

Questions, comments, ideas, please e-mail me at 455@i2k.com
Phil Veldheer Racing
Holland MI USA
78 Cutlass 10.39, 87 442 10.83, 87 442 11.86